Many people realize that riding a bicycle instead of
driving a car saves the noise, stinks, and congestion of the infernal combustion
engine. Do you know the personal benefits of cycle commuting? Cycling offers
pleasure, companionship (ride with a buddy), cost savings (especially if you eliminate a
motor vehicle), time savings (combining workout with commuting), reduced stress, and
cardiovascular fitness. A bicycle can be a "fitness club on two
wheels." Riding is fun and makes you feel good.
Skills: Do you know how to ride a bicycle? Almost
everyone would say, "Of course, I learned as a kid." But watch people
riding bicycles. You will see that only a few riders, perhaps 5 percent, show true
proficiency by steering accurately, pedaling easily at a brisk cadence, and riding
fast. They have to go fast since they ride at least 2000 miles/year.
You will also see many novice riders who weave and wobble, as they grind their pedals
slowly (less than 60 rpm) to ride sluggishly (6-12 mph). Novices usually ride less
than 500 mi/yr. Many run traffic lights, ride on the sidewalk or the wrong side of
the road, ride too fast downhill and wear no helmet. Novices have about five times
the crash rate as experienced riders even though they are much less likely to ride in
rush-hour traffic in foul weather or after dark. Obviously, there is more to cycling than
balance. Now, ask yourself again, do you know how to ride a
bicycle?
If you are willing to learn, consider the Effective Cycling program.
Effective Cycling, developed by John
Forester, is based on the "Vehicular Cycling" theory. The premise is
"Cyclists fare best when they act and are treated as operators of vehicles."
This is the opposite of what Forester calls the "Cyclist Inferiority" phobia
where riders are terrified of being struck down from behind by automobiles. The fear
begins in traditional "bike safety" programs which teach little more than
"wear your helmet and stay away from cars." This miseducation prompts the
behavior that leads to many accidents.
Cyclist Inferiority is obvious, intuitive and widely believed. But at one time so
was the idea that the stars revolve around a flat Earth. Accident statistics refute
the inferiority superstition: Less than one percent of serious cycling injuries are
caused by the struck-from-behind collisions feared by novice riders. Most cycling
collisions happen at intersections, the same as automobile collisions.
The dilemma is that novice cyclists fear the least likely accidents too much and they
fear the greater hazards too little. Riding the wrong way in traffic or worse,
riding the wrong way on the sidewalk, is most common cause of car/bike collisions.
Ironically, many novice cyclists think these are safer ways to ride. For more
information, see the accident study by Wachtel and Lewiston from The American Bicyclist
Nov/Dec 1994 issue.
Vehicular Cycling involves "Five Rules for Traffic
Cycling". Excerpted from the book Effective Cycling by John
Forester, published by the M.I.T. Press. Copyright John Forester. (There is
also a video by the same name.)
- Drive on the right side of the road, never on the left and never on the sidewalk.
- When you reach a more important or larger road than the one you are on, yield to
crossing traffic. Here, yielding means looking to each side and waiting until no
traffic is coming.
- When you intend to change lanes or to move laterally on the roadway, yield to traffic in
the new lane or line of travel. Here, yielding means looking forward and backward
until you see that no traffic is coming.
- When approaching an intersection, position yourself with respect to your destination
direction -- on the right near the curb if you want to turn right, on the left near the
centerline if you want to turn left, and between those positions if you want to go
straight.
- Between intersections position yourself according to your speed relative to other
traffic; slower traffic is nearer the curb and faster traffic is near the centerline.
I will add a sixth rule of the road. Be predictable. This means to ride a good straight
line, signal turns and lane changes and generally look like you know what you are doing.
If you act like the driver of a vehicle, then other drivers will usually understand what
you are doing.
Effective Cycling teaches vital skills: riding a straight line, the quick
look-back, the instant turn, and hard braking. Other skills include lane changing
and being courteous on the road (sharing the lane) without being submissive. You can
see these demonstrated in the video or described in the book, but to really learn them,
take the course. You can find a list of instructors at the League of American
Bicyclists web site.
The Effective Cycling book has many useful tips and technical
explanations for how a bike works -- for example, why some brakes feel softer as you apply
them. The paperback edition costs less than $20 and it should be available through
your library. (If not, ask. I got my library to buy it.) Unfortunately
the book has a strident, confrontational tone when the author discusses political
issues. However, the more I read Forester, the more I realize he knows cycling
better than almost anyone else. The video version of Effective Cycling
gives an excellent demonstration of Vehicular Cycling technique. Libraries should
have both the video and the book. You can get the video from the League of American
Bicyclists, phone 202 822-1333 or email to Michael
Klasmeier. The much smaller booklet, Street Smarts by John Allen,
available from Bicycling Magazine,
also covers vehicular cycling. The state of Pennsylvania produced a "Bicycle
Driver's Manual" that is based on the Street Smarts booklet. Pennsylvania's Bicycle Driver's Manual is now on the web!!
Sharing the road works two ways. Overtaking motorists
have the obligation to wait until they can pass safely and then to allow enough
room. Cyclists have the obligation to make passing as easy as possible as long as
passing is safe. If the lane is wide enough, stay far enough right to allow cars to
pass. If not, then you must take the lane for your own safety.
Beginners often "hug" the curb because they fear traffic. This greatly
increases their risk. If you collect a train of cars, pull over occasionally to let
them by. If a motorist gives you the right of way, acknowledge with a friendly wave
or nod. When you stop at a traffic light, don't hug the curb or right turning cars
may cut around you. Instead, where there are right turning motorists, scoot to your
left and signal drivers to "be my guest" and pass on your right.
Be very careful about waving drivers around you on a curvy, two-lane road. Just
after you signal, an oncoming car may appear ahead. You could have a liability
problem if there is an accident. At a traffic light with a long line of stopped
cars, you will have a great temptation to pass on the right. Unless you are in a
wide curb lane (such that cars can easily pass you again), don't -- it is not
"fair" and it causes much resentment in motorists. Remember, if you ride a
regular route, other drivers will recognize you as "that cyclist".
Dealing with Barbarians: A major problem for cyclists
is Joe Six-Pack Motorist driving his "Suburban Assault Vehicle". Joe,
along with the rest of society, has been miseducated about cycling and thinks cyclists
should not be on the road. Joe may honk and point at the sidewalk to show where you
"belong". Bikeways, especially in the absence of education, reinforce this
attitude. Some police are ignorant too. If you are ordered off the road or in
the gutter, explain why you belong on the road. Carry a page listing bicycle traffic
laws to show the officer. (Mine is laminated in "Contact" plastic.)
If this does not work, write to the police chief suggesting that the department needs
Effective Cycling training. (There is a special police version.) If your
community has a "sidewalk law" then you must choose the lesser evil:
accept the hazard of riding on the sidewalk, ride safely but risk getting tickets, or
drive a car. (See the author's companion article, "Bicycle Commuter
Issues, The Politics of Two Wheels".)
Remember that drivers are generally looking for cars, not for a much smaller
bicycle. Always wear bright clothing and ride in or near the traffic lanes where
drivers are looking. Drivers may misjudge your speed and "hook" in front
of you. For these occasions, you need the defensive driving skills taught in
Effective Cycling -- hard braking and the instant turn. Learn to anticipate problems
in order to avoid them.
For the few bozos that try to run you off the road, here are some tips from other
cyclists. "Learning to be assertive is a good way to get rid of hate; they are
trying to bring you down to their level; for your own good, you have to rise above
them." "Carry a ‘jerk book’. When an incident occurs,
write down the license number and other details, trying to make it obvious what you are
doing. The driver may watch in the mirror to see your reaction. He will get
very nervous if he sees you writing." The notebook is also handy for turning in
bad commercial drivers -- sometimes there is a "how's my driving" sign on a
truck.
Equipment: If you are planning to bicycle commute,
obviously you need a bike. If you already have a serviceable machine, start with
that. Buy a better one after you get experience. Stay away from mass
merchandisers. Their bikes range from inadequate to dangerous, particularly in the
brakes Visit several reputable local shops (ask around) and don't buy too
cheap -- expect to spend at least $400 (unless you find last year's model or a good used
bike). The three most important things about a bike are fit, fit, and fit. A
good bike shop will help fit you. Beware a store where stock on hand determines what
"fits" the customer.
Common bike styles include currently fashionable mountain bikes, road bikes, and
hybrids. Avoid extremes. A heavy mountain bike with soft suspension and knobby
tires will not roll well. A racing bike with thin sew-up tires gives a hard ride and
gets too many flats. You can see an overview in the buyer's guide in the April issue
of Bicycling Magazine.
When I bought a new bike, some friends advised a road bike with dropped handlebars for
reduced wind resistance. Another friend said "you can hybridize a mountain
bike" (by getting harder tires) "but you can't mountainize a hybrid
bike." I settled on a hybrid with high pressure tires since I do not ride off
road.
You need at least a few accessories for commuting. With a new bike, look for a
discount or package deal. Consider a rear rack, pump, spare tubes and tires, patch
kit, tire "irons", spare brake cable, chain lubricant, some basic tools and a
good lock. You should also get either toe clips (to hold your feet in the proper
position) or Clipless pedals and matching shoes. For moderate distance commuting (21
miles/day), I use clips with my regular shoes. For the days when I gamble it won't
rain (and lose), I keep a complete change of clothes at work, including shoes.
In addition to tools, you need rain gear and cycling gloves (to prevent "handlebar
palsy"). To hold all this plus change of clothes and lunch, get panniers
(packs) to hang on the front or rear racks and/or a handlebar bag. On my bike I use
a handlebar bag designed for a road bike -- I bent the wire frame to make it work on my
hybrid. I also have a small tool bag, panniers and a "trunk", a bag that
fits on top of the rear rack. (I sometimes carry lots of stuff.) Tip: Carry
only light things in a handlebar bag. Weight up front makes steering more
difficult.
Safety equipment starts with a helmet, which can reduce head
injury risk significantly. Newer designs are lighter and protect better than those
from years ago. To read an interesting testimonial, refer to John Allen's web site. Other safety
items include bright clothing, a rear
view mirror (I prefer the type that clips on glasses) and a highly reflective safety
flag that sticks out to the side, making your bike look wider and more visible. My
flag is a "Flash Flag" from Flashback.
Traffic law in most states requires a headlight and taillight if you ride after
dark. You should carry a small first aid kit as well.
A few cyclists have a strong prejudice against mirrors. Some feel a mirror is a
"crutch" and cite a freak accident 30 or 40 years ago where a rider's eye was
blinded by a shattered mirror. The real issue is the limitations of a mirror.
A mirror provides only a narrow field of view, takes getting used to and needs proper
adjustment. You should use a mirror to supplement the "look-back", not
replace it. When you are about to change lanes, the look-back provides communication
with a motorist and is a way for you to "ask permission" for your move.
(When you change lanes, you do not have the right of way.) However, unless
your neck is as flexible as an owl's, looking back to see straight behind is very
difficult. This is just where a properly adjusted mirror works best.
Night riding: Don't even think of riding after dark without
a headlight. Bright clothing does not work at night. You need lights and
reflectors. A strobe (flashing) light on the back of the bike may help motorists
notice you but is not good for depth perception. Forester recommends replacing the
small, red, standard rear reflector with a 3" SAE amber auto reflector that is eight
times brighter. If you mount the reflector off to the side it is less likely to get
caked with mud thrown up by the wheel. The Effective Cycling video
shows a rider (Forester) with a large off center reflector. Reflectorized clothing and a
"Flash Flag" (see above) are also good attention getters.
Bicycle headlights cost from under $20 to over $200. If you ride off road in the
dark, you need an expensive, multi-beam, high-power system. For commuting on smooth,
well-lit roads, 3 watts may be adequate. If a handlebar mount light cannot not
"see" over a handlebar bag, you can rig another mounting system. A small
flashlight is handy for repairs in the dark and can serve as a backup headlight.
I have used a Union generator set (2.4 w headlight, 0.6 w taillight) for several
years. The headlight mounts to the top of the fork tube, under the handlebar
bag. Recently, I bought a second Union set, partly to have a spare generator but
also to have a second independent light system. I mounted the extra headlight
assembly on my left fork, connected through a push-button switch to a rechargeable
lead-acid battery that goes in my water bottle cage. The battery (6 volt, 4 amp
hour) was designed for emergency building lights. I bought it at a home supply store
for $11. It works well although it is rather heavy.
Tips: Most beginners pedal too slowly, often under 60 rpm,
thus get tired quickly and strain the knees. It is better to spin easily at 80-100
rpm. However, if you find yourself bouncing on the seat, you are cranking too
fast. To prevent injury, take it easy the first 10 minutes or so, until you warm
up. If you use toe clips for commuting, don't tighten the straps. This makes
it easier to get feet in and out when you stop but you still get the foot positioning
benefit of the clips. Tuck the shoelaces into your shoes so they don't get caught in
the chain.
If you use a mountain bike, replace the soft, knobby tires with smooth, hard (~80-psi)
tires with much less rolling resistance. Keep your tires properly inflated.
Besides rolling easier, you will prevent pinch flats (also called snakebite). A soft
bike seat comfortable on a 10 minute "test ride" may be excruciating halfway
through an all day trip. You need a seat that supports your weight on the ischial
tuberosities (sit bones) rather than the perineal area. Adjust the seat height
by raising it until your hips start to rock when you ride. Then lower it slightly
until the rocking stops.
Lube your chain every couple weeks, after a rain, and especially when it
"sings". Learn simple repairs such as repairing flats, adjusting and
cleaning bearings, etc. A good reference is Bicycling Magazine's Complete
Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair. You can find much more cycling
information online, for example, Internet discussion groups and a Cycling Forum on
Compuserve. While most online information is reliable, be a little wary. I
have found good cycling articles and links to more on web pages of Sheldon Brown, John Allen, Ken Kifer, and
here on Bicycling Life.
Many people ask about needing a shower after riding to work. The need depends on
the temperature (lower in the morning) and the level of effort and distance for the
ride. On hot days, rather than shower at work, I take it a bit easy on the
ride in, then soak my face in a cool, wet towel, and wait to change my shirt (from the
T-shirt used on the ride) until I've cooled, 30-60 minutes later. I have not worn a
tie since I started riding regularly (but keep one in my desk for the rare
occasion). In cooler weather, I wear my "work" shirt.
I wear shorts or running pants rather than dress pants to avoid a "chainring
tattoo" on my pants leg. Cycling shorts usually have a "chamois" pad
to prevent chafing on long rides. For this to work, however, the chamois should be
next to your skin, which means no underwear. This can make for an interesting
experience if you are caught changing behind the bookcase in the office. On a
commute, you likely do not need chamois shorts anyway.
You need a safe place to park. Some of us enjoy ultra close-in parking right in
the office. Why not try it? A local cycling club may find a mentor to give you
tips on road positioning, routes, equipment and clothes. You might also find a
"riding buddy" at work. A buddy provides another set of eyes to watch for
problems, deters troublemakers and can help with repairs.
Time cost: A bicycle is usually slower than an auto.
Thus there is a "time cost" of cycling. Let me put this in personal terms:
I live 9-12 miles from work (depending on route). It takes about 20 min. to drive or
40 to ride (shortest route). Therefore, my time "cost" for riding is 20
min. But I get 40 min. of healthful exercise in this time -- much more efficient
than driving to a gym. (See Also: No Time To Bike)
For the ride home, I choose a 12 mile scenic and shady route mostly through the park (on
the road, not the "All Purpose Trail" with its "Stop, Walk Bike"
signs). The ride home takes about 50 min. Surveys of cycle commuters show that
many consider 10 miles one way to be a maximum reasonable distance for regular
riding. Those living further may drive part way and ride the rest. In a few
communities public transportation accommodates bicycles.
An ideal bike route is fast, convenient and direct. It will be free from dense,
high speed traffic and have a wide, smoothly paved outside (right) lane without hazards
(like parallel bar sewer grates and chuckholes). You may have to choose between fast
but busy arterial roads and side streets where you face delays at main road intersections
by stop signs or traffic lights.
Winter cycling: Winter brings new challenges -- keeping
hands and feet warm while not overheating elsewhere. One secret is wearing layers of
clothing (ventilating zippers are a must). A breathable wind shell over a wicking
fabric works well. To protect both yourself and the bike from splash thrown up from
wet roads, get fenders. If fenders do not extend low enough, add homemade flaps made
from a plastic milk jug. ICEBIKE
is an interesting web site for winter riders.
In winter, I exchange my shorts for flannel lined nylon running pants with leg
zippers. I sewed elastic on the right cuff to keep it away from the chainring.
An ear band helps keep my head warm. If you have a more a sensitive thermostat you
may prefer a balaclava under the helmet. Below freezing, I wear mitts and liner
gloves. I seldom wear fancy cycling clothes.
A special winter hazard is black ice. My worst fall was in a place where the road
looked clear except the blacktop was just a little "too black". Another
problem is visibility. You are often riding in the dark. In the early morning or
late afternoon you may be invisible to a motorist dazzled by low sun.
BUGs: Consider starting a Bicycle User Group (BUG)
where you work. At Cleveland's NASA/Glenn Research Center "GO-BIKE" performs bicycle
advocacy, helps the Safety Office to host events like "Ride to Work" days and
works to improve the cycling environment. NASA loans the Effective Cycling
video and other materials (free) to employees.
My goal for this article is to help beginners get over initial hurdles and avoid common
mistakes. You can find much more information in the sources mentioned in the
text. You do not need to learn it all at once. Expect it will take time to get
used to riding in traffic -- perhaps 10,000 miles to learn by yourself; 5,000 miles if you
get help or 2,000 miles with an Effective Cycling course. Find a buddy if you can,
start riding and have fun. The best time to start is now.
A companion article, "Bicycle Commuter Issues, The Politics of Two Wheels" discusses
problems caused by our society and what we might do about them. If you have
questions or comments, please direct them to Fred
Oswald. The opinions in these articles are the author's.
Go to Top
